Changing impressions

I can’t believe that I only have 11 days left in Japan. Since arriving in January the time has gone so fast! I think my first impressions of Japanese people and culture are still accurate, but being here for a full year I have been able to go a little deeper, seeing and experiencing things that you wouldn’t on a holiday.

The stereotype of the shy and quiet nihon jin I think is accurate to an extent. Upon first meeting they can be quiet and reserved, not wanting to talk about themselves, polite and timid. But the beauty of being here for one year was getting past that shield and getting to know them better. If you were lucky enough to experience this, like I was you will find an amazingly loyal, sometimes out going and crazy friend for life.



6am in Osaka. Ai, Hana and Misato! I will miss them so much



Going from knowing one word of Japanese before I arrived (konnichiwa, so sad I know), I find it not short of a miracle the amount of Japanese I have learnt. Unfortunately I can’t say that I have completely overcome the language barrier, but I can usually get my point across with time and patience, which luckily are qualities that most Japanese people have! I think this has helped to give me a deeper understanding of the country and culture, being able to interact, read signs and ask for directions!

I would never have imagined being able to read
this before coming to japan!

Compared to my first visit to Japan, when I was completely ignorant and uneducated about anything Japanese, I would like to think that now a year into my studies and after living here my understanding of the people and culture is more accurate. But impressions constantly change, and in a country like this so rich with culture you could live here for 10 years and still learn something new every day! I think one of the things that still continues to schock me is the price of fruit and vegetables! Something i will never be able to understand! I’m so grateful for this experience, it has changed my life.

Arashiyama (own choice 4)

 One of my favourite places in Japan is Arashiyama, with so many things to see and do and the way it distinctly changes with every season. I have been 3 times, and each has been a totally new experience. 

The first and favourite time I went was during hanami, the time of year when cherry blossoms are in full bloom. To this day it was one of the most spectacular things I have seen! It is an extremely popular area at that time of year and thousands of people packed the streets to see the trees! The Togetsukyo Bridge spanning over the Oi river is one of Arashiyamas highlights. Crossing this 80 year old bridge allows you to see the picturesque views on the mountains and depending on the season a different variety of leaves. During Hanami families, friends, salary men and strangers all gather along the river sitting on blue tarps eating bento, drinking alcohol or even making nabe while gazing at the cherry blossoms. It is an amazing site to see!

Togetsukyo Bridge

Arashiyama offers many other activities too. There is monkey Park Iwatayama, (if you can get up the huge mountain) home to over 170 Macaque monkeys. Every monkey has a name and there is a special feeding cage where you can hand feed them! The top of the mountain also allows you to witness beautiful views over Kyoto. There are also many temples and shrines, the bamboo forest, cafes and restaurants and boat and train rides.

monkeys enjoying the view of kyoto

feeding!

bamboo forrest

fall at arashiyama

Sumo!

Sumo! (own choice 3)

On the weekend, some friends and I made the long journey to Fukuoka to watch the sumo wrestling. The tournament is held at the Kokusai Centre and runs for 15 days. Most westerners are under the common misconception that you can watch a sumo match anytime in Japan. In fact, there are only 6 grand tournaments a year, 3 are held in Tokyo and 1 in Osaka, Nagoya and Kyushu. Sumo wrestlers or rikishi fight once everyday with a different opponent. The winner is the rikishi with the most wins compared to losses and is awarded with the emperor’s cup on the last day.  

Sumo arriving at the Kokusai Center

Before the sumo begin, they have a doyo-iri or entering the ring ceremony.

At present there are 800 rikishi from trainee level to the highest, the yokozuna. Becoming a yokozuna is what every sumo trains for, but in the past 300 years since the title was created, only 69 rikishi have been honored. Once titled a yokozuna, he can never be demoted, even if he makes a bad showing during a tournament. If he continues to perform badly he is expected to retire. 

Current yokozuna hakuho performs his dohyo-iri

 After following some good advice from a teacher, we decided to go on a weekday and buy the cheapest general admission seats. The arena didn’t start filling up until around 4pm, as people come to see the more famous acts that are on in the late afternoon. So we were able to sit really close and see all the action!

As we were there all day I did a lot of people watching, observing all the different people that attend sumo. Everyone from school children screaming for their favourite wrestler, adorable little old ladies with their bento, salary men, geisha or maiko, (we were not really sure) families and couples.

One of the highlights of the day was then crowed favourite, the Estonian Baruto and his opponent both fell and the judges had to be called to deliberate who won the match. You were expecting it to come up on instant replay or something high tech, but instead 4 men entered the dojo and together decided that Baruto had lost. He did not like this, storming out without bowing. He was then forced to return to the dojo to bow before being allowed to leave. It was a once in a life time experience and one of the best things I have done in Japan!

For more information on sumo and its history please follow this link.

http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2080.html  

Leibovitz & Natchewy

Annie Leibovitz is an American portrait photographer who has dedicated her life to her art. She first began working at Rolling Stone in 1970, and quickly became their chief photographer. When photographing a client, she tries to integrate herself in their surroundings trying to capture candid unposed moments. She says “a lot can be told from what happens between moments” and its these photographs that have helped make her so famous.

 Mick Jagger, Buffalo, New York, 1975.

Arnold Schwarzenegger

After Rolling Stone Leibovitz worked for Vanity Fair. This is where I personally saw her work. For ever my grandmother has had a subscription to vanity fair and has kept every issue. When I was younger I used to look through all her photos and loved the glitz, magic and glamour of the way she posed the celebrities. These are some of my favourite.

More amazing photos can be found at http://vi.sualize.us/tag/annie%20leibovitz/
In contrast to Leibovitz, James Natchwey is a war photographer began taking photos in the 80’s. He can be quoted as saying “through photography he discovered the world and himself”. Through his photos he tries to bring attention to harsh realities of war, capturing painful moments between families such as death, loss and poverty. His photographs are not just art but a method of communication to share with the rest of the world.

These people allow Natchewy to capture these personal moments as it gives them a voice to the outside world that they otherwise would not have. Both photographers have dedicated their lives to their art. So much can be learnt from Natchewys intimate and personal style of taking photographs, and Leibovitz daring and inspired portraits.

Mt Fuji, otherwise known as the day we nearly died (own choice)

Last weekend 2 friends and I decided to take on Fuji San. Now every single one of our friends thought this was a terrible idea as the 3 of  us are not exactly at one with nature and climbing season finished 2 months ago. Not only this, but the weather forecast thunderstorms and as our insurance policy considered the climb an extreme sport and we were not covered. Nether less our tickets were booked and we were trying to be optimistic!

So after our 8 hour night bus to Tokyo, and a 3 hour bus ride to the mountain, we were ready to start the climb at 10:45am!! The weather was not the greatest, extreme fog and a little rain but nothing we couldn't handle...6 exhausting hours later, 3 snack breaks, 1 picnic, 200 photos, the most breath taking views I have ever seen, 5.8km and 4 extra layers of clothing later we were 300m from the summit!! I couldn't believe it! We thought it a little odd that we saw only 4 other climbers all day but didn't worry too much.

Photos: Top- Just a little fog!, Middle- View from the 9th station, Bottom- Huge shadow of Fuji, probably should be down the bottom by now!

It was 5pm and going to get dark soon so we started heading back. Mistake number 10 for the day, should have left 4 hours earlier...it got dark very quickly and it wasn't long before we took the wrong trail and got lost. We saw lights on in a cabin and thought we would ask for help as it was 8pm and we were exhausted! Turns out the last bus left at 3pm (we probably should have looked into this a little more) he let us sleep there for the extreme price of ¥5500 each. But we were very great full as we didn't exactly have many options and it was about 5 degrees.The place was so traditional, complete with a pot belly fire in the lounge room, deer heads on the wall and 1huge communal bunk bed to sleep in. We were asleep by 9pm!

We woke up ready to head back for the bus and couldn't believe the beautiful views! The day before we missed out due to the fog on the lower level, but it was phenomenal! The leaves have started to change for fall and it was beautiful!It was probably the most difficult thing I have ever done - every muscle in my body is still in pain, and I won't be doing it again anytime soon, but I would highly recommend it! Maybe just plan your trip a little better!

  Amazing views that we could have missed due to the fog the morning before

Not the clearest photo that I took, but it was taken from the bus as we

returned to Tokyo. Seeing the sheer size of the volcano, its impossible to believe that I actually climbed it!

Diva Misato

For this piece I chose my good friend Misato, otherwise known as Diva Misato. Misato is 21 years old and was born in Fukuoka.Misato is unlike any other Japanese friend I have. She loud and outgoing, constantly posing for photos, has a love of hip hop music and American culture which is often shown through her facial expressions and vocabulary. Twice she has studied abroad in America to better her English, and I assume this is where her attitude and mannerisms come from! But the most unique thing able Misato is she is 177cm tall, the gentle giant! At least twice on every outing we go on, whether it be shopping, clubbing or at a restaurant she is constantly told that “your Japanese is very good, how long have you been studying?”

Just last weekend, we were at a market in Kyoto and the sales man said easy Japanese words trying to sell his food, slowly yelling “sushi, sushi, sashimi, sashimi” and we said “nijonjin! Nijonjin” pointing at Misato. They are always apologetic and embarrassed to hear this! But the sashimi looked delicious! 

Left:
"Sashimi! Sashimi!"

Right:
Glasses. Check.
Peace Sign. Check.
Nails. Check...
Looks pretty Japanese to me!

Aside from studying at Gaidai, she also studies hair and makeup in Osaka on the weekends. Every day she comes to school with fun and crazy makeup this is where the idea for the photo originated. She is very easy going so it wasn’t too hard to persuade her to take of half a face of makeup! What do you think? I think she looks great both ways, but I love seeing Japanese girls without makeup! It’s so rare!

Neighbourhood Hirakata

Having lived in the seminar house last semester, I needed a new change when I returned. My friend and I decided to get an apartment together. Luckily we had been travelling for the last 3 months together, so space wasn’t so much of an issue! In Australia, I live with my best friend in a huge 4 bedroom house. This is common, and we only pay around $120aud a week – inclusive of bills. So we have it pretty good! After looking at a few places we finally found our dream home!

Left: The width of our apartment...complete with walk in wardrobe!

Right: One bed and a cupboard...Creatively turned into a second bed!

So, it’s a little small, but I just think convenient! The bathroom and kitchen is only 5 steps away from my bed!! And only a 5 minute walk from school, excellent Indian food, our friend’s Hawaiian café and a bus ride to the station!

The dreaded hill leading to Hirakata city

 Where all the magic happens: Toriki, Karaoke and the 100yen Shop!

 Japanese communities are so different to your typical Australian neighbourhoods! For example, our apartment is between a primary school, and a day care center. The day care center leaves their front gate open and the kids run up and down the street. They have teachers are with them of course, but it gives the impression of a much safer and trusting environment. Then there is the little things like the garbage sorting, millions of bikes you have to wade through to get yours out and all the little obaachans that come out at dusk to walk their mini pooches! I love this time of night, the streets are so peaceful and beautiful.

I love being able to come home to my own place and relax. It has such a homely feeling as we have been able to decorate it and make it our own. Even if it is the size of my kitchen at home, it’s a great experience and it will make me appreciate the space that I do get when I return!

My Street at dusk